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Ginger and Ivory

In:BlogScotlandTravel Diaries

Two Highlanders and an Islander Visit Scotland

June 29, 2019March 12, 2020, By: Marissa

WELCOME to part two of our travels, in Scotland! This diary is about the second half of our trip in Scotland. Make sure to read Part One of our Trip on Ireland first! So, Amanda and I told Erin we only had one condition for coming on this trip; she had to watch at least one season of the show Outlander. The show is filmed in Scotland and I wanted to do a tour to all the sites and castles they filmed at. After BEGGING her to watch it, she finally started it…FLEW through all four seasons, restarted it, texted us day and night about it and then watched it AGAIN. She would rush home from work everyday just to crawl in bed and watch it. Erin was obsessed! You know what really didn’t help this situation? Taking a vacation to Scotland. Literally. Like every other sentence out of her mouth is about Outlander.

Erin with her outlander book

We spent the entire week in Scotland either quoting, reenacting or hypothesizing about the show and Scottish history. So I am sorry if a lot of this travel diary is filled with quotes about the show. IT’s ALL WE DID. And, mark me, dinnae be thinkin’ I won’t be throwing a wee bit of Scottish slang in me blog, ya ken noo. Cause I will!

So I encourage ye, the person reading this, to watch Outlander. Ye can find all 4 seasons on Starz or the first two seasons on Netflix. It’s a bonnie good show. Just look at the pic below ya ken.

jamie outlander

AND I AM NOT SORRY.

i regret none of it i love you outlander

Glasgow, Scotland: Day 9

I am lucky to be living with two roommates who both studied abroad in Glasgow and could give me SO many tips and recs for the city. My roommate Carly typed up a whole guide! We spent the first day in Scotland exploring Glasgow, going off of her list. When I was making the decision to fly from Ireland to either Glasgow or Edinburgh first, I researched which city had the most weekend markets andddd that’s how we landed at Glasgow first. That’s a little travel tip for ya, always see what’s happening in the cities you are traveling to beforehand.

Exploring Glasgow!

breakfast glasgow
Started off my day with AMAZING French toast
glasgow
Some cool bell tower
glasgow
Honestly this city looks real good on me
glasgow
I love the look of all these old buildings
merchant square market
Market time! Glasgow’s best market! Every single person at this market was SO nice, friendly and would talk yer ear off. I loved it. I love a good conversation.
i love it gif

In the market, one of the vendors asked if Amanda was on her way home? Confused, she asked, “on my way home?” And he said, “Ye on yer way home from the clubs? Ye look like ye are dressed for the clubs.” HAHAHAHAH Let me provide you with a picture of what she was wearing.

Slutty!!!
glasgow center
We walked through the center square, nothing exciting. 
glasgow
And on to the main shopping street. There was a huge 2 story stationery/ paper store. Amanda and Erin sat at the café while I BOUGHT EVERYTHING.

I went into one shop and while I was purchasing, the guy rang me up and said “dsjkf;airhgauhf;A” to me. And I was like uhhh, “What?” He looks at me funny and says, “Oh sorry, do ye not speak Gaelic?” and I respond, ” errrr no”. He goes, “Sorry! Ye look like ye do!” Haaaaaaaaaaaaa. Must be my luscious red locks.

Gaelic gif
Platform glasgow
The next market was the Platform Market. It was under the train station and it was all food trucks! It was great! Such a cool idea. 

West End and Glasgow University

west end Glasgow
After, we took the subway over to the West End area. We walked around all the little streets and shops before heading over to the University.
Glasgow university
My roommate told me the University of Glasgow looked straight out of Harry Potter. After my visit, I can confirm, it looks straight out of Harry Potter. 
Glasgow university
Makes CSULB look like a pile of poo.
Glasgow university
Yer a wizard, Harry
Glasgow university
I mean I think if I went to a university like this I would have been more inspired to study. Study witchcraft and spells and shit.
Glasgow university
Now, some of you might recognize this enclave from Outlander! It’s where they filmed “Harvard” (lol) when Bri was showing Rodger. Ya ken what I’m talking aboot, aye? 
erin ballet
Just us having a bit of a photoshoot
Maybe this is why our feet we hurting? Cause it took 20 jumps to snap the perfect shot?

At this point in our day, everyone was BEAT. DEAD. NOT WELL BITCH.

And a wee nap was in order. Also, this is when the wifi stopped working in our Airbnb. And guess what: in the next Airbnb in Edinburgh, the wifi wasn’t working as well. So here starts our Wifi-less ~JoUrNeY~. I don’t mind not having internet a single bit. It’s just annoying when you want to map yourself to a restaurant or look up museum hours and you can’t! Luckily Amanda has an international plan so she could look things up when necessary. PLUSSSS this meant we couldn’t lay down and watch Outlander on Netflix. WAH.

Dinnertime

We went back over to the same area as the market from this morning for a nice meal. And a wee dram!

cocktails
Oooo It was much needed. Drowning our wifi sorrows awaaayyyy.
speedway
They also were randomly playing Speedway on the tv! Which was GREAT! I haven’t seen/ been to Speedway in years. It hit me right in the ~fEeLs~.

Glasgow, Scotland: Day 10

Ayeee, Day 10 already! I was stoked for this day before we started our trip.

happy brave

I had been in contact with my Aunt Diane about our Scottish history and genealogy. She sent me so much information. Aunt Diane is my grandma’s sister, on my dad’s side. Their mother was born in Scotland! She knew all the history about her, and her mother, and all their families, where they lived, who they married and where they died. Amanda and I come from Clan Flockhart, Clan Cochrane, Clan Hunter, and Clan Smith. And probably way more we have no idea about. Everyone was probably cross-pollinating and getting knocked up right and left. Honestly, I could very well be the descendant of Mary Queen of Scots ya ken?

Stirling Castle

Alloa, the town my great-grandma was from, is near Stirling Castle. And if ye know anything aboot this castle ye know it has some major significance with the war between England and Scotland ya ken! This is where Mary Queen of Scots lived! And with my family right down the street, there is no way I’m not somehow related. 

train to Stirling castle
Me thinking bout if the Jacobites won the Battle of Culloden and managed to put a Stewart back on the throne how different things would be. Ya know, just some train thoughts.
Stirling, scotland
Little town of Stirling
train to Stirling castle
My biggest regret is not taking the train to the castle.
Stirling Castle, Scotland
Stirling Castle
Stirling Castle, Scotland
Crazy to think that so many famous Scots lived here. And then the English. And then Scots. And then the English. And then Scots. And then the English. And then Scots. And then the English. And then Scots. And then the English. And then Scots. The castle switched hands often. 
Stirling Castle, Scotland
This lookout is called “Ladies Lookout”. It’s where the ladies of the castle would watch their men go off/ come home from war. Hopefully, come home. Or they would stand there watching the English coming to take over, again. They would be in charge of yelling “THE BRITISH ARE COMING!” I think. Don’t quote me on that.
Stirling castle audio tour
A couple of bonnie lasses on their audio tour
Stirling Castle, Scotland
Just Amanda and I arguing over who is the rightful heir to the throne. She might be born first but like, I look better in a crown. Sooooo, me.
Stirling Castle, Scotland
These details!
Stirling Castle, Scotland
Want to know why Scotland picked a unicorn as it’s national animal? Because in myths and legends, a unicorn is the only animal that could kill a lion. And who’s national animal is a lion? The English.
Shady gif
Stirling Castle, Scotland
These aren’t the original tapestries. These are an exact replica of the ones that used the hang here. The originals are hanging in the Met in NYC.

Alloa, Scotland

After a quick train ride from Stirling, we arrived in Alloa. I’m not sure if because it was a Sunday but, this town was dead. Like, DEAD. No one was walking around, shops were closed, restaurants were closed. Compared to Stirling, it was a ghost town. But, we were there to visit a graveyard so I guess that’s fitting.

Movie theater in Alloa, Scotland
This movie theater is inside a church!
pie and haggis
Since we were STARVING. We ate at one of the only places open, in a hotel. It ended up being great! We had meat pies and haggis bon bons!
haggis
Haggis bon bons
They were great! According to Erin, all it needed was some Taco Bell hot sauce and we would be set!

Flockhart Tombstone

Flockhart tombstone
How cool is this! This is my family!
Flockhart tombstone
There was writing on all 4 sides with the names, birth, and deaths of all different family members. It was quite cool and weird and spooky all at the same time.
tired on train
And then we trained back to Glasgow.
I take a nap right here

Dinner and a Show!

whisky tasting
And by dinner, I mean drinks! Whiskey!
whisky tasting
This place, recommended by my roomie, had over 1000 different kinds of whiskey. I don’t recommend walking up to the bar and asking, “What’s good here?”, they might give you a weird look.

Amanda and I smelled four different types of whiskeys before settling on two to taste. Homeboy was not feeling me when I asked for a Diet Coke on the side. He told me, “Then ye can’t taste the distinct notes of the whiskey”. And I was like, ya that’s the point. It tastes like I just gargled Windex, so ya, pass me the Diet Coke… homeboy.

parks and rec whisky

After the dranks, we made our way to The Howling Wolf, a bar with live music. Another fabulous recommendation from my roomie!

nacho dinner
Don’t worry we ate at the next place. And ordered more drinks!

After a couple more drinks, we decided we should probably call it a night and turn in!

Glasgow to Edinburgh Scotland: Day 11

We didn’t have anything crazy planned for today. Our only objective was to get from Glasgow to Edinburgh. To kill time, we decided to do a brewery tour. After breakfast, we headed over to Tennents Brewery to learn how they make their beer, tour the facility and have a wee tasting!

Tennents Brewery

Tennents brewery
Is that Sam Huegan who plays Jamie in Outlander??? Aye, it is.
jamie i regret none of it i love you outlander
Tennents brewery
My, that’s a lot of beer
Tennents brewery
Time for a tasting! This is clearly more than a taste!
Tennents brewery
It was only noon a we felt a wee buzzed
ron dancing
spaceman glasgow
We explored the murals around Glasgow, they were everywhere.
Amanda liked the space themed ones, obviously.
coo mural
Erin enjoyed the coo’s

Glasgow Cathedral

glasgow cathedral
We made our way to the Glasgow Cathedral! Did you know this is where they filmed the scenes in France in Outlander? Where Claire is volunteering at the hospital? AYE!
glasgow cathedral
Literally GORG.
glasgow cathedral
And if you watch Outlander, this is the scene in the hospital… and the baby… I don’t want to spoil anything but this is where that scene was filmed. They have a plaque and everything that talks about it.

I should mention that Erin bought a book about where they filmed the show all across the country. We made sure to hit up all the filming spots in every city we went to.

That’s Erin, talking to her new Outlander book.

Train to Edinburgh

Luckily, the train ride was only an hour long. Amanda and Erin sat together and watched Outlander (surprise) on her phone because God heard our prayers and added the first two seasons to Netflix while we were away! We got to our Airbnb around 4pm and it was… WOW.

Apartment in Edinburgh
This place is rad!
Apartment in Edinburgh
Please note the lava lamp

We were all starving at this point. We had an early dinner and walked around the city a bit before heading back to the Airbnb.

Dinner in Edinburgh
I needed some carbs
Edinburgh, Scotland
Straight up Harry Potter
Wall art in Edinburgh
It doesn’t matter where I am in the world, I will be as extra as possible
Cathedral Edinburgh, Scotland
Gorgeous cathedral on the royal mile

So unfortunately for us, we were still without wifi. BUT we came up with an amazing solution for watching Outlander. Three of us, in the big bed, with a few pillow propped up with Amanda’s phone angled against them. You might think it’s a little ridiculous that three of us would squeeze into a full-sized bed to watch a TV show but, mark me, we needed to do research because our Outlander tour is TOMORROW!!!!!!

Edinburgh, Scotland: Day 12

Before I left, people would ask me what I was most excited for and I said eating carbs. AND this Outlander tour!!! I would respond, so there is this show… and I read all the books… and they have this tour around to all the spots they filmed the show… AND I’M PUMPED.

wonderful news je suis prest jamie outlander

Our day started bright and early. We all climbed on a bus and got ready for a day filled with Outlander facts and fun. Our tour guide was amazing. She drove this huge bus around while spitting out facts about the show and the history of Scotland. Highly recommend.

Stop 1: Linlithgow Castle aka Wentworth Prison

Linlithgow Palace
The scene where Jamie says “I’ll thank ye to take your hands off my wife.”
Linlithgow castle
Also! Mary Queen of Scots was born here

Stop 2: Doune Castle aka Castle Leoch

Doune Castle, castle Leoch
Guess what? They also filmed Season 1, episode 1 minute 1:34 of Game of Thrones here as well. Monty Python and the Holy Grail, Outlaw King, as well as Outlander was filmed here as well. But of course Game of Thrones has a sign.
Doune Castle, castle Leoch
Out of all the castles I saw on my trip, this one was by far my favorite. Usually you can’t walk around much of the castles but this one you could wander into every room, hallway, nook and cranny.
Doune Castle, castle Leoch
The view from Doune castle
Dressing up in 1500's clothes
The best part, in the gift shop, they had an area to dress up in 1500’s garb!
Dressing up in 1500's clothes
I had my loyal chambermaid help me
Dressing up in 1500's clothes
Ready to be cast in the show! Any takers?

Stop 3: Culross aka Cranesmuir 

Culross is where they film Geillis Duncan’s house, most notable for the scene where the boy gets his ear nailed to the pillory. Also, they use the gardens here as the gardens for Castle Leoch. And lastly, in season 4, they film Laoghaire’s house.

The gardens plus a nice view
Geillis
pilary in culross
Pillory!

This stop is also where we had lunch. I had a fabulous pizza and a wee spot of tea.

Stop 4: Falkland aka Inverness in the 1940s and 1960s.

Not sure why they didn’t just drive up to Inverness to film Inverness things but whatever.

Cathedral in Falkland
This has nothing to do with Outlander but I thought it was pretty
falkland hotel
Here is where they filmed Claire and Frank on their honeymoon in Inverness.

Stop 5: Midhope Castle aka Castle Lallybroch

mid hope castle, Lallybroch
The best for last, Lallybroch!
mid hope castle, Lallybroch
Where Jamie was tied up and flogged
mid hope castle, Lallybroch
Us sitting here waiting for Jamie to return home to us.

End of tour!

Jamie outlander
It was a bonnie tour, ya ken.
je suis prest jamie outlander

If all these images of Jamie I have placed throughout this blog won’t get you to watch the show, then Ah dinnae ken what to tell ye.

Lobster dinner
After the tour is was time for some lobster. I’m fancy.
Entrance off of royal mile, Edinburgh
This was the entrance to dinner! Isn’t it lovely?

After such a long day, we went home… crawled into bed… and watched Outlander. DURRRR.

Edinburgh, Scotland: Day 12

Today was a walking around, exploring kind of day. We had been super blessed with the weather this entire trip. Today happened to be super foggy and in the afternoon it started pouring rain. But, we started out the day with the most amazing breakfast!

Porridge in Edinburgh
Erin and I had a lemon curd an meringue porridge and Amanda had a coffee, chocolate and banana porridge. LORD I can’t even begin to describe how amazing it was. Hands down, one of my favorite meals.

Edinburgh Castle

Streets of Edinburgh, Scotland
We made our way through the streets to Edinburgh Castle. See how foggy it is?
Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
This was probably my least favorite thing we did on the trip. Skip this stupid castle. SO SO SO many people SHOVING YOU. Everything was remodeled, recreated or fake. Only interesting part was where they kept prisoners and a room with the timeline of who held the castle when.
Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
Castle is super lovely from afar

More Exploring

Cathedral in Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
You can see the castle from just about everywhere in the city! Again, much cooler from afar.
Sir Walter Scott monument
Sir Walter Scott Monument

National Scottish History Museum

You know we are all about dat Scottish history now. Amanda, Erin and I wanted to read all things Jacobite, history, wars, battles, and monarchy.

Museum of Scotland
Mary Queen of Scots Jewelry
Museum of Scotland
To be honest, this family tree cleared up a lot of confusion. I’m glad I took a picture cause I keep referencing it in my phone when I need to brush up.

Dinner and… Outlander

It might not seems like we did much today but man we walked a lot and it POURED rain in the afternoon. We went to a little cafe next to our Airbnb to let the storm pass, use their wifi and eat some cake. I wish I took pics but we had a shortbread dipped in chocolate cookie, which was amazing. A white chocolate raspberry muffin, which was outstanding. And lastly, a toffee coffee cake, which was unbelievable. Every single baked good was so scrumptious. Couldn’t believe we just stumbled into a place with so many good treats. Actually, props to Erin for being PICKY AF and not settling for a mediocre place with mediocre cake.

By this time, the trip was catching up to us. We just wanted to lay down. We went about 40 feet from the Airbnb, across the street to a pub for dinner. I split a bacon, brie and cranberry bison burger and a nacho with Amanda. And a Guinness to wash it all down. We didn’t split the Guinness. Drank that bad boy all by myself. Anddddd of course after dinner, we snuggled back into bed to watch Outlander.

Edinburgh, Scotland to Dublin, Ireland: Day 13

IT’S AMANDAAAAAA’SSSSSS BIRTHDAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY!!!!!!

How COOL is it that we are in Europe for Amanda’s 29th bday? Ringing in her final year of her twenties in style. Damn she old.

We checked out of the Airbnb, stored our luggage at the train station and made our way to breakfast. The breakfast place was AMAZING. For the last meal in Scotland, we all got traditional Scottish cuisine.

Amanda's birthday breakfast
They even glued a lil candle on her plate!

Amanda and I got blood sausages and egg sandwiches and Erin got a haggis scramble. We tried to soak up as much last min Scottish culture as possible.

And since it was her birthday!

We got Aperol Spritz! For Breakfast! Yolo

Exploring before our flight

We had time before flying back to Dublin to hit some streets and areas we couldn’t do when it was pouring rain.

Streets of Edinburgh, Scotland
Streets of Edinburgh, Scotland
Streets of Edinburgh, Scotland

It’s just all so pretty. Loved this city. But I felt like it needed the personality of Glasgow. If I could take the Glasgow people and mix it with the looks of Edinburgh it would be perfect.

Arrive in Dublin, Ireland

Our last stop. *insert sad face whomp whomp whomppppp. But it’s still Amanda’s birthday so we are still partying! My friend, April, flew over from England to spend the remainder of the trip with us! I just love, love, love, spending time with her and I’m glad we were able to see each other while I was so close to her side of the world.

Amanda’s Birthday Dinner

I sent Amanda a list of restaurants for her to pick from before we left so I could make a reservation for her birthday dinner. Homegirl picked the fanciest one. I would have too, to be honest. We all got the three-course meal. Starter, entree, and dessert. This place is known for their steaks so we all got that! Minus April, she had the pasta.

Don’t recall what this was but it tasted like a garden. The ice cube has pomegranate seeds frozen in it. Rich!
Fire Restaurant, Dublin
Woodfire baked, pistachio & pecan crust, focaccia crouton goat’s cheese with Pickled beets, chestnut honey
Fire Restaurant, Dublin
8oz Irish Hereford Prime Aged Sirloin Steak
Tobacco onions, Pont Neuf chips, micro cress salad, brandy pepper & cream sauce
Fire Restaurant, Dublin
Iced Praline Parfait. Gingerbread biscuit, cherry gel, crushed caramel, chocolate sauce.

My, it was a mighty fine birthday dinner if I do say so myself!

Fire Restaurant, Dublin
HAPPY 29TH BIRTHDAY TO MY FAVORITE SISTER!!!!

Dublin, Ireland: Day 14

Our last full day. It turns out, you can do Dublin in about one full day. Which we already did. Today we had no real plans except the Jameson Distillery tasting at 4pm, my birthday gift to Amanda (so kind).

Cake for Breakfast

This was probably my 3rd favorite breakfast we had. Right behind the birthday breakfast yesterday and the porridge in Edinburgh.

Cake cafe, Dublin
Cake cafe, Dublin
Don’t think we didn’t start out the day with a little breakfast dessert! Victorian sponge cake with clotted cream and jam!
Cake cafe, Dublin
Carrot and walnut pancakes with citrus curd & berries
Cake cafe, Dublin
Green goddess poached eggs on cake cafe toast with avocado, spring onions and herb yogurt dressing.
Cake cafe, Dublin
Irish sausage scramble with scrambled eggs, slow roasted tomatoes, Merguez sausage, shallots, crème Fraiche and coriander on cake cafe toast.

Not sure what Merguez sausages are, but lord… they were the best sausages I have ever had. Every single one of our meals were OUTSTANDING. The cake, the coffee, the breakfast. It was just WOW.

April and I
April and I spent the rest of the day wandering around Dublin.
April and I
Christ church, Dublin
We went back to Christ Church but this time, we went inside and explored the crypt. Lots of old stuff.
April and I
Pretty much just farted about
Guinness beers Dublin
After walking up and down a lot of streets, we decided to pop into the Stags Head for a pint! Trying to drink as much Guinness as we can before we leave.

Jameson Distillery

April and I were already buzzin’ at this point. lol. We made out way across the river for some whiskey tastings! This was all Amanda wanted. to do for her birthday because, for some reason, she loves whisky, and Jameson!

clear alch
Jameson Distillery tastings
The whiskey tasting crew
whisky
Jameson Distillery tastings
Left to right: the Jameson you get everywhere, the Jameson only available in Europe (my favorite), The Jameson just at the distillery and lastly, the Jameson that was only available in Jameson tastings which was like 95% proof and it tasted like I just licked the inside of my gas can and chased it with rubbing alcohol.

I’ll show you what that last one tasted like.

Jameson Distillery tastings
Look at me, so naive
Jameson Distillery tastings
At this point, the smell has hit my nostrils… but it’s too late
Jameson Distillery tastings
Oh LAWD
Jameson Distillery tastings
it BURNSSSSS
cheers gif
We went to the oldest pub in Dublin for our last dinner. April and I are pretty buzzed now! Cheers to our last Guinness!

Sadly, I had to say goodbye to April. Till next time my dear April! Amanda, Erin and I went back to the Airbnb to, you guessed it, watch Outlander.

Dublin, Ireland to Los Angles : Day 15

We figured the best way to go out in style is to head BACK to the Cake Cafe for round two of cake for breakfast. It’s STILL vacation.

cake cafe, Ireland
This time a lemon yogurt cake!

After we divulged in cake, we packed our bags and headed to the airport.

Flying back home

My goal on the flight home was to not sleep. We would land at LAX around 6/7pm and I figured if I could make the ten hour flight, land, drop everyone off, by the time I got home it would be around 9/10 and then I could dive into my bed. Unfortunately, we all had to take a little cat nap. We were exhausted. It didn’t affect me one bit that night, however. I was able to sleep, wake up Sunday and do all my chores just fine. Didn’t feel jet lagged at work the next week either! I was just depressed I was back at work. I always get post-vacation depression. Just sitting at work like, “Why am I not frolicking through the highlands with a Scottish man”, “why are there people driving on the right?”, “where is my morning cappuccino?”, “how come Erin and Amanda aren’t in my bed watching Outlander?”. Erin is feeling the same way. She is constantly sending Amanda and I photos of Scotland on Instagram asking when we are going back.

It was SUCH a great trip. In conclusion, we loved Scotland over Ireland. However, the road trip around Ireland was one of our favorite things we did. Next time we go we are 100% renting a car and driving around Scotland. That’s the BEST way. Overall, 10/10 trip.

Can’t wait to start planning the next!

TATAAAAAA for now!

Alrighty, people if you are visiting Scotland and need some advice on what to do, I got you! Check out my posts on Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dublin, Galway, and the Dingle Peninsula! I have tons of other recommendation lists for cities all over Europe: Amsterdam, Rome, Athens or for a full list check my Destinations! In the meantime feel free to read my Travel Diary on Ireland.

Visit Glasgow Scotland
visit edinburgh
travel diary for Ireland
Alloa, black pudding, cathedral, Culross, Doune Castle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, haggis, Linlithgow palace, Midhope Castle, outlander, outlander tour, Scotland, Stirling, university of Glasgow
4 Comments on Two Highlanders and an Islander Visit Scotland

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4 comments on “Two Highlanders and an Islander Visit Scotland”

  1. agentpink1965 says:
    July 1, 2019 at 12:42 pm

    This is amazing! What a great trip! I love how you told the story of your trip! I can’t wait to do this same trip! And eat all the things! 🙂

    1. Marissa says:
      July 1, 2019 at 1:33 pm

      Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it! Toaster meet up in Scotland next time? haha!

  2. Alexis Marrero says:
    July 2, 2019 at 2:09 pm

    With your narration and beautiful pictures feels like we are there. !! Beautiful ! glad you girls had a good time! Cheers to you lassies!😃

  3. Pingback: Visit: Iceland - Ginger and Ivory

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